spinning wood into gold

Manufacturers producing organic textiles (primarily cotton) are certified according to the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS), the number of whom continues to increase annually. In 2014 3,814 facilities were certified, and interestingly, India heads the list of countries with the largest increase in GOTS certification in 2015, followed by Europe. Germany ranks third in the total number of GOTS certification. For an interesting survey of organic cotton, see:

According to the Organic Trade Association's recent Organic Industry Survey, the market for organic textiles is rapidly expanding, partially resulting from the 2011 US Department of Agriculture's policy requiring companies labeling their textiles as “organic” to certify their products to the US organic food standard or GOTS. "The figures show that GOTS is credible and independent certification of the entire supply chain is an important driver for the business case for sustainability--in contrast to mere self claims," said Claudia Kersten, GOTS Marketing Director. 

Cotton prices continue to increase--in 2011 it was dramatically higher due to the massive rains and flooding in Pakistan and other countries which destroyed cotton crops the previous year. Climate change continues to exert  effects on agriculture in the midst of shifting to organic cotton cultivation. 

While the use of cotton generally continues to decline as a result of cost and consumers' ethical and environmental concerns, Nordic countries are reactivating wood pulp mills which had declined over the past two decades. Anxious to meet increasing demand for replacing cotton with viscose, fiber from timber, the Nordic forestry and pulp industries are increasingly viable, especially as manufacturing now conforms to environmental regulation. Additionally, Ikea, Hennes & Mauritz (H & M) Filippa K, and other Nordic firms would like to source locally to meet their own sustainability goals.

Rowan felted tweed, alpaca, wool & viscose content

Global output of pulp for textiles is expected to grow by 30% by 2020 in anticipation of increasing demand for viscose and lycel, as cotton production peaks (and of course water is the primary culprit in production, even if it is organic) according to Oliver Lansdell at forest products industry consultancy Hawkins Wright. No coincidence that the Norwegian firm producing yarn for hand knitting, Drops, already has a cotton/viscose yarn available.

photograph: INDIGITAL speaking of tweeds, see Chanel knits from ready to wear A/W 2016 collection (love the grommets!)


photograph: INDIGITAL Chanel knitwear, grommets & wool from ready to wear A/W 2016 collection (more grommets)


Altuzarra A/W 2016 wool knit with leather




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