In addition to Calvin Klein, the US has produced Rodarte, the sister sister team so EU in their intellectual approach to design, no wonder, since Kate and Laura Mulleavy attended UC Berkeley Shockingly, Rodarte was not even nominated for a 2011 Academy Award for their wonderfully inventive costumes for Black Swan. Black Swan is definitely a knitters’s movie, in addition to exploring the murky depths of creative ambition and ambiguity.
Colleen Atwood’s designs for Alice in Wonderland, directed by Tim Burton, scooped the award for costume design. ecomodista wasn't the only one who felt Rodarte's designs for Black Swan were brilliant and should have garnered an award. Interviewing the sisters for W Editor’s Blog, the Rodarte team discussed the concepts of stories and duality, “We looked at its [ballet’s] historical relevance and the socio-political developments of ballet and the female body over the years. Also, we really thought about how the subject of voyeurism would be explored in the film through the cinematography and story telling and thus wanted to focus on playing with viewership in the designs. We drew from an internal understanding and personal fascination with the idea of duality.” Unfortunately, there has been some disagreement regarding their contribution, although given the dominance of knitwear, the conflation of the feathers as a fringed scarf worn by the protagonist off stage and the graphite body paint, there is little doubt of their involvement. Apparently the Rodarte's agent did not negotiate proper credit rights. What could be easier for a knitter than stripes? Or what about Christopher Kane’s enlarged crochet granny square skirts and loose short sleeve sweaters? Stunningly designed and incorporating Rodarte trademarks, the Black Swan costumes are exciting manifestations of the importance of knit on the fashion scene today. Having given additional thought to YSL, and having just finished knitting a turtleneck, ecomodista perused the trends of the moment, some of which are classics recycled, especially stripes. Miucia Prada, Dolce & Gabana, and designer for Moschino, Rossella Jardini mix stripes with floral skirts.
below: Natalie Portman in Black Swan; photo Niko Tavernise