Monday, October 24, 2016

less is now more than ever: the Anthropocene Age 2

less less less while fashion at the moment is more more more
photograph: Chloe A/W 2017

Sadly, given the majority of human beings recognise our environment is unstable  due to our impact on it (resulting in the seasonless concept of fashion) and large corporate fashion conglomerates acknowledge the volatility, instability, complexity of our world, their response to this is to simply name new designers, who, most definitely have been formed by these conditions--Demna Gvasalia's work reflects these concerns conceptually, if subliminally, Chloe's Claire Waight Keller's love of knitwear which is often seasonless given extreme weather shifts. see Sarah Mower's interview with Gvasalia: 

ecomodista's ethos includes eschewing plastic bags (and has been shockingly inundated with paper bags in the Hamptons this autumn, when she forgets to bring one).  The small nylon shopping bags that fold/stuff are a great solution, but really there are so many wonderfully designed knit bags, it's inexcusable ecomodista has not yet made one. Louet has spun wonderful linen fibers, and although heavy, it is strong and of course hemp fibers are equally tough.

Plastic bags are a major environmental issue, even causing delays at Recology, an advanced recycling operation in San Francisco which has attracted global interest in mechanised sorting much finer than occurs at consumer level (a cost that should be borne by producers of consumer goods). In 2012, San Francisco banned plastic bags at retail stores, and Moore Recycling Associates estimates there are approximately 18,000 plastic-bag drop-off sites in the United States, many of them at supermarkets. ecomodista can not conceive of a better reason to knit at least one shopping tote or a handbag that has such dual function.


photograph: http://www.thefashionlaw.com/home/pfw-demna-gvasalia-takes-his-place-at-balenciaga  


Another strategy for reducing consumption of fashion, electronics, etc. is repair. To repair a knit Tasha's blog, Turn Stale Bread into French Toast is an excellent guide. see: https://tashamillergriffith.com/2013/01/20/how-to-fix-a-small-hole-in-a-knit/ Patagonia has offered repair days for years, when consumers of their products may return with repairs or mends. What a lovely concept. Founder of Patagonia, Yvon Chouinard has long advocated  a business model and products that have environmental safeguards, using recycled materials, producing products made to last, and repair instead of replace.
Tom van Deijnen's mission is The Visible Mending Programme which is"to highlight that the art and craftsmanship of clothes repair is particularly relevant in a world where more and more people voice their dissatisfaction with fashion’s throwaway culture. By exploring the story behind garment and repair, the Programme reinforces the relationship between the wearer and garment,  leading to people wearing their existing clothes for longer, with the beautiful darn worn as a badge of honour. By writing this blog, running darning workshops and taking repair work commissions I provide mending inspiration, skills and services to people and hopefully persuade them that shop-bought clothes deserve care and attention too, just like a precious hand-knit. see: https://tomofholland.com/about/
photograph: recycled detailleur on ecomodista's recentlyacquired 1972 Puegot
The Swedish government is introducing tax breaks on repairs to everything from bicycles to washing machines so it will no longer make sense to throw out old or broken items and buy new ones. Sweden’s ruling Social Democrat and Green party coalition has proposals before parliament  to slash the VAT (Value Added Tax) rate on repairs to bicycles, clothes and shoes from 25% to 12%. It will also submit a proposal that would allow people to claim back from income tax half of the labour cost on repairs to appliances such as fridges, ovens, dishwashers and washing machines.“We believe that this could substantially lower the cost and so make it more rational economic behaviour to repair your goods,” said Per Bolund, Sweden’s minister for financial markets and consumer affairs and one of six Green party cabinet members. see:

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